Tulum, Mexico is the crown jewel of the “Mayan
Riviera”—shimmering blue waters and incredible beaches among stunning ancient
Mayan sites. Among afficionados of this
hot spot south of Cancun, the most pressing concerns seems to be the level of
seaweed clogging up the famed beaches. But
seaweed is only one of Tulum’s problems—including failing infrastructure,
overzealous developers, drugs, and too many DJs.
In barely more than a decade, Tulum transformed from a
backpacker’s beach into the next stop after Ibiza on the global DJ party
circuit. It now has 40,000 residents, with 200,000 expected by 2030, and the
town hasn’t been able to keep up with the arrival of wealthy jet-setters and
the people who follow them on social media. There is no electricity on the
beach, so diesel generators groan all day and night to run the air conditioners
that customers demand. The beach has no adequate sewer system, and waste has
been leaching into the water supply beneath Tulum and out to the ocean, killing
the coral reef. Tulum’s old landfill, a few miles outside of town, is full, and
last summer it burned in the heat for three months straight. The new dump was
supposed to last five years but was already overflowing after 18 months. The
beach and the jungle stretching away from the coast are dotted with
construction sites, and small hotels started by hippies chasing a dream are
being pushed out by large developers who seem to anticipate no end to the
growing number of tourists hoping to see what Tulum is all about.
Tulum first opened for renovation in 1970, when the Mexican
government converted mostly empty land on the Yucatán Peninsula’s
northeastern-most point into a vacation destination. Cancún now welcomes six
million visitors a year with its gorgeous beach, a strip of all-inclusive
resorts, and Señor Frog’s serving tequila shots. That success led the
government to rebrand 80 miles of beachfront to the south as the Riviera Maya,
including what was once a quiet fishing village called Playa del Carmen, where
there are now four Starbucks within ten blocks.
Tulum, meanwhile, was little more than a truck stop a few
hours south, with a Mayan fortress on the beach where tour buses disgorged
visitors for an afternoon. Unless you were looking to get off the grid, there
wasn’t much reason to stay. Beachfront hammocks went for $10 a night, or you
could sleep at the ruins, under the stars.
But an empty beach a few hours from the U.S. wasn’t going to stay that
way for long.
But Tulum has become even more infamous for the incredible
surge in violence (much of it occurring in and around tourist areas)—now
becoming the most violent tourist destination in all of Mexico.
In April 2020, a tourist shopping on the beach in Tulum was
shot after being caught in the crossfire when a vendor was targeted by gunmen. The next month, a man and a woman were shot to death by three
hitmen at Mercurio and Palenque streets in Tulum.
On August 5, 2020, a man was shot and killed in broad daylight in Tulum outside Plaza Andador. Two others were injured. The shooting happened when two armed men
attacked others inside the square. Upon their escape, they shot at three other
men, killing one and injuring two.
In October 2020, two people were executed and three people injured in an armed attack on an electronic music event that took place in the
hotel zone of Tulum, which resulted in a stampede of about a thousand tourists.
In January 2021, a man was shot multiple times by two armed men who fled inside the I Scream bar.
On March 2, 2021, a man and a woman were shot while on Playa Paraíso in Tulum. The couple were at
Playa Paraíso when at around noon, two men aboard a motorcycle showed up and
began firing at them.
On March 4,2021, an early morning shooting in Tulum left one dead and four with injuries. The
shooting took place during the early morning hours of Thursday in the city’s
center on Beta street. When police and
paramedics arrived, they found one deceased man laying in the street with four
others injured. On the same day, a man was shot dead in broad daylight while
riding his bike in the Mezzanine area of Tulum.
He was found lying dead on the ground beside his bicycle.
In March 2021, Tulum authorities reported a double execution near the Kaan Luum lagoon next to the road that leads to Felipe Carrillo Puerto.
Also in March 2021, a man was shot at the entrance to the archaeological zone. Two gunmen on a
motorcycle arrived at the parking lot and opened fire at the man, and then fled
to an unknown destination. On that same March day, armed robbers struck at the Hotel Era on Calle 6 Sur in the La Veleta neighborhood of Tulum. Several armed men entered shortly after 1:00
pm, subdued the employees and hotel guests in the lobby, and took cash and
valuables. The thieves escaped in a
vehicle that was parked at the scene.
In May 2021, there was a shooting outside the Hartwood restaurant. Men on motorcycles chased
down and shot a man dead on Route 15 near the restaurant. On May 29, 2021, the body of a dead man, handcuffed and
wrapped in black garbage bags, was discovered in a green area of the federal highway near Akumal, in front of the Dreams hotel in Tulum. A day later, a man was executed while traveling in a taxicab
in the hotel zone of Tulum. The attack took place in an area crowded with
international tourists.
Two expats described in a Tripadvisor post how they were
robbed in broad daylight at the Chedraui market in El Centro in June 2021. Also that month, in the presence of
tourists, two subjects were executed mid-day in front of tourists at Playa Paraíso, a kilometer from the archaeological remains of Tulum. Witnesses said the victims were enjoying the
day on the beach, when two people arrived with long and short weapons and
opened fire, leaving them lying on the sand and on the lounge chairs they were
renting.
On July 1, 2021, two gunmen on a motorcycle stopped at
Camello restaurant on Mercurio Street (between Kukulcán Avenue and Palenque
Street) got out of the vehicle and shot a man to death and fled. Also on the same night, armed individuals arrived in a
vehicle at the México Lindo restaurant on Tulum Avenue (between Centauro and
Satélite) and began shooting at those who were inside. One person died as a result of the attack,
while another was seriously injured and a third was slightly injured in the
neck.
Two Americans were shot at Tabu Restaurant on July 16, 2021. In another Tripadvisor post, a father described how his family
of four (including two children) were robbed at gunpoint at the Deli Fresh
market in Aldea Zama in the same month.
In September 2021, two people died and one injured after
gunfire erupted at the Rosa Negra restaurant in Tulum. Witnesses say that armed
people entered the restaurant around 10:45 p.m. and began shooting. At least
eight shots were fired before those responsible fled. Two men, one security
guard and one taxi driver, were killed.
Earlier this month, travel blogger Anjali Ryot from San Jose,
California, was one of two foreign tourists killed in Tulum, after
being caught in the crossfire of rival drug gangs. The other tourist was 35-year-old German
national Jennifer Henzold. Three other tourists from Germany and the
Netherlands were also injured as they dined in an outdoor restaurant on Tulum’s
main drag.
Also this month, a worker at a car wash was shot by two men
on a motorcycle in the Tulum business district. Just a couple of days later, a local man was murdered by a shooter on a motorcycle in front of tourists in the archeological zone of
Tulum.
A news report from Mexican news outlet Reforma cited
information from state authorities alleging that at least five criminal groups
operate in Tulum, including the Jalisco New Generation Cartel and a faction of
the Zetas. The disposable income brought by tourists and a popular culture of
late-night partying has added value to the local drug market where cocaine and
marijuana are in high demand.
A recent traveler to Tulum reported on his trip as follows:
The hotel zone is 100% congested with cars and with people
trying to walk on the main road with no sidewalks. So, it's difficult to not
encounter hordes of people as you walk down the street. Most of the tourists
seem to be the very young party set (college age) who seem to be heavy drinkers
most of the time and no regard for the current pandemic. Our family did not
feel comfortable venturing to any of the restaurants or walking outside the
hotel given that the majority were drunks with no masks.
Restaurants are very expensive; taxis to town are very
expensive and take a long time, 25 mins each way. Dinner for two, with a basic
meal was over $100.00. There is lots of promotion from the local pharmacies for
drugs such as pain killers, Viagra, etc.
This is a prime super spreader environment, and the atmosphere seems to
be a combo of spring breakers gone wild and/or burning man goers. It's
definitely not a tranquil, calm or respectful place which is very sad because
this area was at one time quite beautiful.
Mother nature is also taking a hit in this paradisical
corner of the world. Lax environmental
regulations and out of control development has led to widespread contamination
of the water table, with 25% of household waste water not being treated before
being put into the aquifer system.
Tulum is built on highly permeable limestone, the geologic
equivalent of Swiss cheese, below which flows one of the world’s largest
underground river systems. Some of Tulum’s biggest non-beach attractions are
its cenotes, where the ground has collapsed to reveal open-air pools with
highly Instagrammable turquoise water. The trouble is that less than 10 percent
of the town is connected to the municipal sewer system. The beach, and many of
the newer developments, aren’t connected at all. Most businesses depend,
instead, on septic tanks, but, whether by accident, neglect, or ignorance —
willful or otherwise — a significant amount of Tulum’s waste ends up in the
ground, where it eventually leaches through the limestone into the water. In
January, a documentary called The Dark Side of Tulum was released with footage
(shot by cave divers) of feces floating in the rivers. According to Mexico’s
Ministry of Environment and Natural Resources, 80 percent of the cenotes in the
Yucatán Peninsula have some level of contamination, and it is now being reported that even human fecal matter has been found in the region’s cenotes.
Tulum’s problems are becoming harder to ignore, and before
COVID, there were signs that the Tulum bubble was gently deflating. Some hotels began reporting more vacancies
than usual, and with so many new condos for rent around town that some had to
lower their rates. During the height of
the pandemic, Tulum seemed to be ground zero for scores of selfish
COVID-truthers and anti-vaxxers looking for a sunny locale where they wouldn’t
be subjected to the minor inconveniences we have all accepted as part of the new
reality. But it is uncertain that they
will be enough to bring the area's glory days.
Many seasoned travelers now consider Tulum essentially a dead-end filled
with pothole-filled streets, overpriced taxis, terrible traffic jams,
out-of-touch yuppies, celebrities, influencers, wannabe gurus, COVID deniers,
and well-to-do folks looking to “find themselves” in overpriced retreats,
hotels, and bars.