U.S. tourists from the mainland have been arriving in droves
in Puerto Rico—many of them without face masks. Puerto Ricans see these belligerent tourists as an extension of a long legacy of brutal colonialism-- people who have no regard for
the health or well-being of the people born and raised there.
“I don’t really care about a mask,” said Selena, a 24-year-old resident from Austin, Texas. “It’s about control,” she said, parroting discredited ideas about the historic pandemic
that has infected over 4 million Americans somehow being a man-made
phenomenon. “The government—they have something bigger going on. The
coronavirus is a conspiracy.”
Selena and her travel partner
Roger were adamantly
anti-mask despite the U.S. death toll of over 146,000. “Maybe some people did
die of coronavirus,” Serena siad. “But a lot of the
cases, the numbers, they’re false, and it wasn’t from the coronavirus.” Roger
agreed, despite a widespread expert consensus that if anything,
coronavirus deaths are probably being vastly undercounted: “I think a
lot of the numbers are made up,” he said.
Conversations with residents and workers in San Juan
painted a picture not just of tourists going rogue, but of an ugly
atmosphere of willful negligence—all while the island’s COVID-19
trend-lines are heading in the wrong direction. COVID-19 cases have spiked hard in Puerto Rico in recent
weeks even as strict quarantine measures were—briefly—eased. The island
loosened regulations, reopening businesses and extending a local curfew
from 7 p.m. to 10 p.m. Officials also rolled out a campaign welcoming
back tourists on July 15.
But within 24 hours of the Puerto Rico Tourism Company’s big day, Governor Wanda Vázquez issued an executive order on July 16 introducing additional measures to limit the spread. Yet, 72 hours later, there were
approximately 496 new people hospitalized for COVID-19 in Puerto Rico—a
record for the island, according to San Juan-based epidemiologist Andrea
Sánchez, who has worked with the Puerto Rico Department of Health. The total number of confirmed or suspected cases had reached 15,000, and at least 201 people had died.
Airport
safety protocols now require passengers to bring proof of a negative
COVID-19 test dated within the past 72 hours. Travelers must also
provide information so as to be tracked
by the Department of Health via texts, calls, or emails inquiring about
any appearance of symptoms, the kind of disease surveillance practiced
with some success by Hawaii, if not most mainland states.
That face masks are required in all public areas in Puerto Rico is plainly stated alongside these airport protocols: A fine of up to $5,000 can be slapped on anyone who isn’t wearing a covering on their mouth and nose. But compliance—especially on the part of mainland U.S. tourists—has been a mess, and a source of sometimes violent tension.
On July 15, a man—residents said he was a U.S. expat living on the island—spat in the face of a Rincón grocery store employee as he argued against using a mask. In a video circulating online, the man said a security guard retaliated by hitting him with a
golf club. The following day, a woman was reportedly physically struck
after refusing to wear a mask in La Perla, the historic neighborhood
that runs alongside Old San Juan. A
few weeks ago, a group of women visiting San Juan’s biggest mall
allegedly retaliated against a Zara employee’s request that they wear
masks by damaging at least $2,000 in merchandise.
A
dancer at an Isla Verde strip club told reporters she’s
encountered wild hostility from tourists who don’t want to wear masks.
Clients are allowed to touch her, the 24-year-old, who asked to remain
anonymous for fear of professional retaliation, explained. But the club
rules state all patrons must wear a mask. “It sucks because I’m
saying it nicely, but they just think that I'm a bitch and they just
give the money to some other girl that's letting them touch her without a
mask,” she said.
It doesn’t help that club security was not
enforcing the mask rule, she added. “[He says] we can’t force them to
wear masks. I see the bouncer then, and the bouncer looks at the manager
and is like, ‘Oh, we can't let a dollar go to waste.’”
The woman has no authority to kick out patrons, she noted: “Plus, they have money in their hands, and I need it.”
Many
Puerto Rican workers, like those elsewhere in the country and the
world, are faced with choosing to go back to their jobs or better
ensuring their safety by staying at home. Nayhomy, an 18-year-old hostess at
a bustling San Juan restaurant and her coworker
Melanie, have said many tourists were irritated
by the mandatory touch-less temperature scan and hand sanitation policy.
“They
have attitudes when they get here,” Melanie explained. “One said she
was going to ‘die of retardation’ for taking her temperature. Another
complained about the sanitizer: They said, ‘Ew, what is that?’”
Over
in Old San Juan, Daryanie Arreaga Morales, a 20-year-old server at a
pizzeria, said some customers argue with her, while others simply leave
when she insists they wear a mask, as per the multiple signs posted out
front. “At the door we also have a sign that says please wait to
be seated,” she said. “But people don’t read. They enter the
restaurant as if everything’s normal.” Arreaga Morales will even offer masks from the employees’ own supply. Not everyone abides.
“It’s
for their health, and it’s also for our health too, because we’re
exposing ourselves. We need to work, we need the money,” she said. “I’ve worn a mask for more than 12 hours at a time at work.
And I don’t complain. But you get angry about using it for a few
minutes?”
Nina Lorenzo, a 34-year-old resident of the historic
neighborhood, said that shouting to tourists to please wear their masks,
reminding them that they could incur a fine, doesn’t help: “They just
laugh it off, like, ‘Who’s going to fine me?’” A representative for the
Puerto Rico Department of Health did not respond to a request for
comment on current travel regulations.
Because
the island is a territory of the United States, Puerto Rico cannot
formally shut down or limit flights at the Luis Muñoz Marín Airport on
its own accord. Only the Federal Aviation Administration can make that
call—another reminder to locals of the bind they find themselves in
during a global health crisis. “What we’re doing now is saying
that we’re not ready for you to come here,” said Sánchez, the
epidemiologist. “Puerto Rico is seeing a rise in cases…. It’s not a safe
place to vacation.”
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